Questions about Dooney & Bourke Features – Authenticity

Hi Paula
I’m wanting to purchase a vintage, previously owned AWL bag/purse but am finding many anomalies and can’t seem to sort out real from imposter. I have reviewed your list of Dooney authenticity criteria but don’t see answers to the following:
Can you please tell me if Dooney ever just glued on it’s Dooney logo/seal or have they all been glued and stitched?
Can you tell me if Dooney ever did not have ‘dooney’ on it’s zipper tab or the DB on the grommets.
Have they ever used different size stitching in different places?
Have they ever NOT finished the edges of the handles and edges of leather or ever not double stitched the handles where they fold over the d-rings and attach to the grommets?
Thanks
Denise
Hi Denise,
It sounds like you are shopping on eBay or in thrift stores and are trying to find authentic Dooney & Bourke items.
Once I start answering your questions you will see why it is not always black and white – there are some hard and fast rules and there are some that have changed over the years with Dooney & Bourke. So here again are your questions with my answers.
Can you please tell me if Dooney ever just glued on it’s Dooney logo/seal or have they all been glued and stitched?
Dooney oval duck seals are always stitched and sometimes glued but never JUST glued. One trick the counterfeiters use is to put stitching on the seal and then glue the seal in place. But if you look on the inside of the bag, you won’t see the oval ring of stitching because the seal is not stitched TO the bag. The authentic bags will have an oval ring of stitching inside.
475-surrey-carrier-firbt-duck
Can you tell me if Dooney ever did not have ‘dooney’ on it’s zipper tab or the DB on the grommets.
 Yes there are many authentic Dooney & Bourke items that do not have Dooney on the zipper tabs. Some have nothing on the tabs and others, such as the Zipalong Wallets, use heavy metal RIRI zippers so the tabs say RIRI rather than Dooney.
Also there are many authentic Dooney & Bourke items that have plain rivets.
A side note here. A grommet is a metal eyelet – a reinforcing ring to protect a hole from wear – such as is used on a drawstring bag. I’ve never seen Dooney & Bourke stamped on grommets.
A taupe and British Tan Dooney & Bourke AWL Drawstring showing "grommets"
A rivet is a metal fastener that is hammered or pressed into place to hold two pieces of leather together.
rivet
It is the rivets that sometimes have Dooney & Bourke stamped on the bottom side of them……but sometimes the rivets are plain on authentic items.
Have they ever used different size stitching in different places?
Yes the stitching has varied throughout the years depending on the item. This is a difficult question to answer without seeing what you are looking at.
Have they ever NOT finished the edges of the handles and edges of leather or ever not double stitched the handles where they fold over the d-rings and attach to the grommets?
Finishing refers to the darker color on the edges of the leather.
On Dooney & Bourke’s trademark hand-stitched handles, I’ve never seen unfinished edges on a new bag – however it is a possibility that if a bag was an irregular sold in an outlet store, the edges might not have been finished. Also as a bag is used, the coloring of the finished edges disappears !
855-R128-soft-satchel-sm-taupebt-1
As far as the second part to this question, I’m having a hard time knowing what you are asking since there are no grommets there.
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